Allez Cuisine!

GRAHAM BLICQ Enlarge Image

This is a pan full of duck livers. That is all.

Sometimes inspiration in the kitchen comes when you’ve hit a wall with a recipe.
   
I have been intrigued by working with duck fat for quite some time now. I’ve wanted to find a whole bunch and render it, and finally make some confit or slice up some russet and make duck-fat fries. Hopefully one day I will find a reputable place with some duck fat on hand or actually have the time to buy a whole duck and take it from there.
   
That was the plan this week, and Graham and I set about finding the delicious stuff. After a stop for a delicious and frugal meal of dumplings and hot-and-sour soup at the tucked-away New Hong Kong Snack Shop, we set forth for Chinatown to wander the aisles of the Asian markets. Alas, after a check in at both butchers, we were still empty-handed; there was no duck fat to be found.     Afraid that we’d lose the entire day driving across the city looking for the duck fat, we conceded and decided to try something else — something we have never tried before. That’s the beauty of writing this column every week: getting to test any culinary desire we can dream of. Standing at the counter it came to us: Although we were unsuccessful in procuring the fat, the store did have duck liver in stock and thus we were compelled to attempt paté.
   
Interestingly enough, a friend of mine, Beau — conjurer of sausages and terrines at the delicious Peasant Cookery — texted me  earlier in the day to inform me of a new batch of kubasa and mortadella that had just finished curing. He gave me a few tips and we were off.
   
You don’t need much to make this offal taste good — just some good sea salt, shallots, garlic, cognac and butter. I definitely think this recipe makes a great and easy appetizer for any party, and it’s really quite inexpensive as well. Two pounds of duck livers set us back $7 but honestly, one pound was enough.

You will need:

1 lb           duck livers
2               shallots, minced
1 tbsp       red onion, minced
3               cloves of garlic, minced
a few sprigs of fresh thyme
To taste    sea salt and cracked black pepper
1/3 cup    good cognac
2/3 cup     butter
1 splash of whipping cream

   
First, sauté the shallots, onion and garlic in a bit of oil and butter. Next, add the livers and thyme. Add a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Cook the livers until they’re still firm and medium rare on the inside. Pour this mixture into a food processor and began mixing. Meanwhile, deglaze the pan with the cognac and let it roll over medium-high heat until it’s reduced to about two or three tablespoons. Add the cognac reduction into the processor. Now, gradually add the butter in small increments while blending. Do this until the paté becomes smooth and has a flavour to your liking. It’s always important to taste your food and don’t forget to adjust the seasoning with more salt and pepper. (I always use sea salt over table salt — it has a milder flavour and there’s less chance for over-seasoning, which can ruin a dish.) Add a splash of cream to the mixture at the end to finish off the paté.
   
Let it cool before you spoon it in jars and let it firm up in the fridge. It will keep for about four to five days.
   
We may not have found the ingredients we originally wanted this week but, in the end, we were more than pleased. A pretty delicious first attempt at paté, and a fun alternative to the usual party chip ’n dipper.
   
Graham Blicq and Stefan Lytwyn are Winnipeggers who love to buy, cook, serve and eat the best food they can find.